Decode Fabric Pricing: A Complete Guide to Texture, Density & Weaving

May 20, 2025

Education

Decode Fabric Pricing: A Complete Guide to Texture, Density & Weaving

Ever wondered why some fabrics feel luxuriously soft, flow effortlessly, or cost significantly more? The secret lies in the way a fabric is built — from the type of fiber and yarn twist to how it’s woven and finished.

As a conscious shopper or brand owner, understanding key metrics like GSM, thread count, denier, twist, and weave will help you make better fabric choices — especially when working with natural and sustainable materials.

We break it down in a way even your local karigar (weaver) or tailor would appreciate.

GSM (Grams per Square Meter) – Kapde ka bhaar (Fabric Weight)

What It Is: Weight of the fabric in grams per 1m².

Low GSM (100–150): Light, airy, good for summer wear (like khadi or voile).
High GSM (250–350): Thick, dense — used for jackets, upholstery, and winterwear.

Why It Affects Price: Higher GSM means more yarn, time, and raw material — leading to higher cost.

Thread Count – Bunaai ki sankhya (Number of Threads)

What It Is: Threads per square inch — both warp (taana) & weft (baana)

200–400: Soft and breathable (great for bed linen and cotton garments).
600+ (multi-ply): Denser, less breathable, mostly aesthetic.

Expert Tip: Don’t be fooled by ultra-high counts. Focus on long-staple fibers for real quality.

Denier – Resham ki motaai (Thickness of Yarn)

Low Denier (e.g. Silk): Soft, flowy.
High Denier (e.g. Canvas, Wool): Tough, heavy-duty

Price Impact: Low-denier fabrics like pure silk are harder to produce and finish, hence cost more.

Ply – Sut ka jod (Single-Ply vs Multi-Ply Yarn)

Single Ply: Lightweight, softer
Two Ply/More: Stronger, denser, more premium.

Higher Ply = more durability + premium finish = higher pricing

Yarn Twist – Sut ka ghumaav

High Twist: Crisp, structured garments (ideal for shirting and suit
Low Twist: Soft, drapey garments (perfect for mul, muslin, and babywear)

Weaver Insight: "Zyada ghoomaa hua sut kapde ko jyada mazbooti deta hai." (Higher twist = stronger fabric)

Weave Type – Bunaai ka pattern

Weave Type	Local Name	Texture & Usage	Cost Impact
Plain Weave	Taana-Baana	Strong, textured (Khadi, Cotton)	Basic
Twill Weave	Khadi Twill	Diagonal lines, flexible (Denim, Wool)	Mid-range
Satin Weave	Resham ka jhalar	Smooth, shiny, luxurious (Silk, Satin)	Expensive

Complex weaves like Jamdani, Banarasi Brocade, and Ikat require high skill and time — increasing cost. Materials like gold zari in Kanjeevaram saris further elevate price.

Fiber Length & Staple – Sut ki lambaai

Long Staple (e.g. Mulberry Silk, Pima Cotton): Luxurious, soft, durable.
Short Staple (e.g. Regular Cotton): Coarser, pills faster.

Long-staple fibers = premium feel, longer life, higher price

Finishing Processes – Kapde ka final touch

Process	Effect	Why it adds cost
Mercerizing	Shine + Strength	Extra Chemical Treatment
Calendaring	Smooth Surface	High-pressure rollers
Brushing	Soft touch (used for flannel)	Adds luxurious texture

Finishing can transform basic fabric into a premium offering.

Why This Matters to YOU

Whether you’re:

Shopping for custom sustainable

Ordering fabric by the metre for your labe
Or trying to understand why some fabrics cost more

These fabric metrics help you ask the right question

Example: A 250 GSM handwoven cotton-linen blend, with a two-ply yarn and mercerized finish, will cost more — but offer longevity, softness, and luxury.

Common Local Terms

English Terms	Local Weaver Term	Meaning
Warp	Taana	Lengthwise threads in weaving
Weft	Baana	Crosswise threads
Ply	Sut ka jod	Yarn Twisting
GSM	Kapde ka bhaar	Fabric weight
Thread Count	Bunai ki sankhya	Threads per inch

Learning Tip:

Warp = Vertical = Taana (Foundation of the fabric)
Weft = Horizontal = Baana (Creates the design or pattern)

Who Designs the Weave?

It’s mostly the weft (baana) that defines the pattern. Here's why:

Warp (taana): Provides structure, remains stationary
Weft (baana): Moves across, introduces motifs, color changes, and intricate designs.

Bonus: Special Design Techniques

Technique	Role of Weft	Local Term	Region
Jamdani	Extra weft creates motifs	Buti Work	Bengal
Ikat (Weft)	Pre-dyed weft yarns	Baandha	Odisha
Brocade	Supplementary metallic weft	Zari	Banaras

In traditional weaving, it’s the weft that brings the fabric to life

Final Thoughts

When selecting or pricing natural and sustainable fabrics, don’t just go by look or feel. Dive deeper into what builds the textile — because what’s inside the weave determines the garment’s soul.

This guide isn’t just for textile nerds — it’s for every conscious customer, fashion brand, or artisan aiming to create or understand better fabric stories.