How to Distinguish Between Handloom and Powerloom Fabrics: A Conscious Buyer’s Guide

May 20, 2025

Education

How to Distinguish Between Handloom and Powerloom Fabrics: A Conscious Buyer’s Guide

In a world dominated by fast fashion, understanding the difference between handloom and powerloom fabrics is essential — especially if you value craftsmanship, sustainability, and cultural heritage. Whether you're buying a saree, kurta, or upholstery fabric, knowing what you're purchasing empowers you to make more ethical and meaningful choices.

Handloom vs. Powerloom: The Basics

Factor	Handloom	Powerloom
Operation	Manually operated by artisans	Mechanically powered with electric motors
Texture	Slight irregularities, softer drape	Uniform, often stiffer feel
Weave Design	Custom, intricate motifs possible	Limited to repetitive patterns
Energy Use	No electricity	Uses electricity
Artisan Involvement	High	Low
Sustainability	Highly sustainable	Often synthetic or blended materials
Price	Higher (for labor and skill)	Lower, mass-produced

How to Spot Handloom Fabric

Slight Irregularities: Look for bumps, uneven threads, or tiny knots. These are signs of manual weaving, not defects

Softer Feel: Handloom fabrics drape better and are more breathable.

Selvedge: Handlooms often have a tight, colored selvedge - a hallmark of hand finishig.

Motif Clarity: Not always symmetrical, but artistic and expressive

Flip Check: The reverse side of motifs will show floating or embedded threads — key to identifying the technique

Weaving Techniques That Reveal the Difference

Technique	Type	Created By	Key Feature	Spot the Difference
Kadhwa	Weaving	Handloom	Motifs woven independently, no floats	Clean back, slightly raised motifs. No floating threads. More expensive.
Fekua	Weaving	Handloom	Motifs made using weft with float threads	Flip to see float lines behind motifs. Lightweight and budget-friendly.
Machine	Weaving	Powerloom	Uniform, rapid weave	Smooth texture, exact repetition, synthetic shine.
Hand Design	Weaving	Handloom	Pattern made by manipulating warp/weft	Irregular, artistic, soft texture. Motifs are part of the fabric, not added on top.

Quick Tips for Spotting the Real Fabric

Flip Test:
- Floating threads? Likely Fekua or powerloom
- Clean reverse? Likely Kadhwa — handloom
Pull Test: Handloom is stronger and tighter.
Burn Test (only if allowed): Natural fabrics smell like burning paper and leave soft ash.
Ask for Certifications: GI tags or artisan certifications (like Banarasi, Pochampally, or Kanjeevaram) indicate authenticity.

Why It Matters

Support artisan livelihoods
Preserve ancient weaving techniques
Promote sustainable fashion
Own a story, not just a product

Final Word

If you're seeking a saree, dupatta, or even a fabric by the meter that tells a story of legacy and love — always ask: Is it handloom or powerloom?

Your choice matters — to the artisan, to the planet, and to your personal style.